Bmw e39 cooling system diagram




Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

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  • The BMW cooling system has used a remote expansion tank design for years now on most of its models. It is usually the highest point of the.

    To purge the air out of the cooling system BMW has provided a bleed screws which should be used during a bleed procedure. In this tech article we will go over.

    i Entire Cooling Department Tips & Tricks (E39 5-speed with My BMW mechanic recommends only Dealer Plastic Tstat Housing.

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    How do you keep the water pump from turning when you are turning the 32mm nut? There is an auxiliary fan thermoswitch in a hose coming out of the bottom of the radiator, but that is a switch, not a sensor. The Fan Shroud should fit nicely on the appropriate clips. Install the Radiator Clips with 8-mm bolts, making sure the rubber inserts are used. This is different from the classic instructions which say to go to test 19, IIRC.

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Where exactly do we look on the E39 radiator for telltale cracks? - Bimmerfest - BMW Forums

    Start a thread describing a particular job oil change, cooling system overhaul, brakes, shocks and springs, etc. When combined above link and this picture, V8 folks should be able to do cooling overhaul themselves cn90 98 i 5sp 95K. Just had a pressure check done to the whole system and nary a leak to be found but everything is still original. My BMW mechanic told me the expansion tanks are the ones to explode on a whim on the I6s whereas the radiator main upper necks go on the V8s.

    A buddy and I replaced the belts also original without removing the fan. Originally Posted by cn I am doing the fan clutch on my E39 this weekend. Last edited by Consciousone; at CN90 Great info replaced the water pump yesterday, was a great help. The guide has been a great help in getting my hoses, fan clutch, and waterpump upgraded.

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    However, I am at unable to get the water pump out due to a metal pipe that extends from the right of the block all the way across to the left of the block and right in front of the waterpump.

    I was able to get the thermostat housing out, but I can't find any way to get the waterpump out, even with the air intake parts removed and after trying for 2 hours; theres just not enough space with the metal pipe in the way. I haven't been able to find any reference to this pipe anywhere. For anyone else with this problem, I guess the metal pipe needs to be removed. From this diagram 11 , it can be removed as it seems to be just an air line: Last edited by safoo; at Originally Posted by safoo.

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Originally Posted by bmwm3coupe. Yes, that bar has to come out. Use only Dealer Fan Blade. The WP Pulley is made from hardened plastic it is not metal and should be changed around K to prevent cracking and left starnded. During re-install, it is a pain to start the first few threads of the Fan Clutch. Here is my trick using the cord: Water pump pulley bolts are low torque.

    Use some locktite and hand tighten. Sensor in lower hose tends to leak from oring if you install it on a new hose. If it has been a few years, save yourself the trouble and just buy a whole new sensor with oring, as the oring is not sold separately. The ideas really translated for me, also Mike for key tips! Bled the air a few times and 2 days later, drove the car from Florida to New York without a drip, the needle didnt budge of course I was running the computer test program 7 for an exact temperature readout If anyone needs any tips on the procedure feel free to post and I will respond[ PS went with the Graf metal impeller.

    Last edited by abbondanza23; at How to tell if you have Mechanical or Hydraulic Tensioners I found out an easy way to tell if your car has mechanical or hydraulic tensioners.

    Bmw e39 cooling system diagram

    Unfortunately, with the mechanical tensioners, you can't replace JUST the roller, like you can with the hydro versions. Originally Posted by 1jzgte. I just pulled my fan off tonight after ages removing the shredded belt wrapped around both crank pulley and the infamous 32mm nut. Anyway this is kinda embarrassing to admit because I'm not a butcher by trade but surprising enough that I have to share it - I managed to undo the 32mm nut using the slip-joint pliers in the factory tool kit I know, I know In hindsight the belt trick probably only works if your water pump is so devestated that side-loading locks it but you never know it may work for someone else so maybe give it a go if everything else has failed.

    Talk about lucky, I'd just returned from a km weekend away, drove to the supermarket for food, parked the car, and the steering went heavy as the belt finally got tossed off just as I was about to turn the engine off Thanks for all the info guys, great forum!

    BMW E39 UNDER INTAKE COOLANT HOSE REPLACEMENT: PART 1



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